The history of a leper colony
Our next island to sail to was Makogai Island, located in Fiji’s Lomaiviti Archipelo. We soon found out about its incredible history. In 1908 the colonial government purchased this island to isolate leprosy patients from the mainland. A hospital was built to be openend in November 1911 with only 40 patients.
Catholic Sisters of the Society of Mary managed the care of patients for decades. Makogai was also know as “Island of Hope“, as patients from British Pacific colonies and New Zealand were treated, rather than just isolated here. In 1950 under the strict regime of Sister Mary Agnes the population grew from 40 to 700 people. People lived in villages, organised by etnicity. In total over 4.000 people were treated here.
It became a self-sustaining, multi-ethic community were patiens were encouraged to engage in fishing, gardening and even craft work as therapy. The alternative was being locked up in a hospital in Suva! The leprosarium closed in 1969 following the discovery of a cure. The island is nowaday not just a tropical paradise, but a poignet symbol of resilience and healing.
The village people
We arrived at this lovely historical island in the afternoon and got ready to meeting the Chief for “Sevusevu“. Taking the dinghy to get ashore was tricky due to shallow spots, but of course we managed well! Ben one of the workers at the Makogai Island Research Station welcomed us with a typical Fijian smile and “Bula, bula“.
We asked for the Chief, who was just controllig a million of clam baby-sperm in one of the basins. He was Dave, the Headmaster and a bit shy, so Ben did the talking and we sat for the “Sevusevu” ceremony where we got blessed and welcomed to the community. The next day the children of the village would show us around, as it was Saturday… this was perfect as they didn’t need to go to school.
A historical walk
Around 10.30 a.m we showed up with lemonade, some cups and snacks (peanuts and raisins) as well as some notebooks and pencils, Captain Craig had bought for the occasion. They were already awaiting us. As soon as we got out of the dinghy “Junior“, Ben’s youngest son came running towards us and gave us a big hug.
The parents went all out on a boat for fishing and we were taken by Vina (Junior’s sister) and her friends Cathy and Sisteri with younger brother Orisi to see the old cinema, jailhouse and the cementery. Both buildings were almost overgrown by the lush bush and trees of the forest.
There were lots and lots of mosquitoes around and big fat frogs. At the cementery we took a moment at the grave of a baby that was buried last year after a miscarriage. It had a big impact on the children and we said some prayers while they were telling me all about it.
I carried “Junior” most of the time on my arm, while Captain Craig had Orisi (slightly bigger) almost all the time sitting on his shoulders while the little boy had slung his arms tightly under his chin. It didn’t look comfortable at all! Humidity got to a level, where I felt that you can’t sweat more!
Getting back to the village, we met Luisa a charming young woman who studies in Nadi to become a family lawyer, but was now visiting her older sister for a couple of months. We invited her over for our little party of lemonade with snacks and small gifts.
She happily agreed and we had a lovely picknick alltogether under a huge tree spending some shade overlooking the bay. The children handed us over 4 coconuts and 3 papaya’s (pawpaw). After this lovely encounter it was time for us to say goodbye and get into the water for some snorkeling.
Snorkeling around Makogai
Glad to finally get back into the water we took the dinghy out to a reef. We went a long way out, to realise that Captain Craig had left his snorkel and mask on Russula! So we went back again to then find a nearer spot. Eventually we found a little reef to snorkel around.
The coral was nice, but as Captain Craig was trying to catch some fish by spear fishing I felt kind of restless. I definitely didn’t want to be in his way, while holding on to the dinghy drifting along! Again we saw some beautiful coloured fish such as the parrotfish, butterflyfish and clownfish. Spearfishing resulted unsuccesful, but we both enjoyed exploring the reef around the nearby Yeasin island.
Makogai Island Marine Research Station
Nowadays Makogai is home to the Fiji’s biggest Marine Research Station. This mariculture center, led by Dave and his right hand Ben focusses with particular emphasis on breeding giant clam (Tridacna gigas) and trochus clam. Ben told us, they just achieved a milestone of after spawning reaching over a million of juveniles. They were too small to spot with our eyes, but we certainly could see how much they were engaged in the proces!
Turtle conservation is an additionally research programm of Makogai Island. This includes monitoring sea turtle nesting and tracking foraging behavior to protect endangered species such as the Hawksbill turtle. During our snorkeling, I surprisingly only saw one turtle… . Being in a conservation I had hoped for more. Nevertheless I always feel very blessed and grateful meeting a turtle.
