Truman Track
After spending a fair bit of time in Nelson and surroundings I felt like moving on again. Catching the bus now along the Westcoast of the southern Island heading to Punakaiki, well known for “the Pancake rocks”. I had booked a dorm bed in Te Nikau Retreat just before Punakaiki town in Te Miko. Friendly Chris picked me and 5 other people up at the bus stop. So kind!
After being settled… there was a Rock in the kitchen… the beds were placed in a half-moon shape I talked a bit to two of my room mates. A young girl from France and a less young fun girl from the UK. Chris had explained that there was a “secret path” leading to Truman Track and the beach. High tide was coming in soon, so still a good time to go.
The “secret path” was delightful! So magic, lush and with all the shades of green you can imagine. It felt like walking through a Walt Disney movie like Lion King. At any time I would expect a monkey to swing around a tree or a snake popping up. Good to know, that both of them are non native animals here, so only to be encounterd in the Zoo, if at all in New Zealand.
Wondering and wandering around, the path met up way to soon with the official Truman Track leading to the beach. Overlooking the Tasman Sea was heaven from this viewpoint. I observed the busy birds (we’re still having breeding time) followed cautiously by their little fledglings, while trying to catch some food. Later I quickly went down to the beach to admire a skinny waterfall. The sound of the waves roaring in was overwhelming. The foamy hiss made me feel vulnerable. All of a sudden there was this huge respect of the power and strenght I was facing.


Pancake Rocks
As tide was rising, it seemed the perfect time to visit the Pancake rocks. Following the path next to the main road, passing the Punakaiki Cavern, a cave where you can spot Glowworms, I eventually reached a couple of buildings just in front of the Panakaiki Rocks. Two restaurants, a souvenir shop, an ice cream place and a Visitors’ information centre. And of course lots and lots of caravans and cars.
Working for so many years in a tourist office myself, I just can’t pass one without getting in. I guess its the passion about sharing knowledge and make sure people are having the best of times that intrigues me. Always interesting how my colleagues around the world are doing their job! A very enthusiastic and dedicated man called Andrew gave me a lot of tips. They had just finished a lovely little trail just behind to building leading to a platform overlooking the Rocks. Afterwards I could then do the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes walk – only approx. 20 minutes – as tide hadn’t reached its hight yet. And so I did.
Doing this round walk exploring a very peculiar limestone landscape full of pancake-shaped rock formations was marvellous. A bit annoying was the fact that a group of very noisy Chinese people was doing the walk exactly the same moment. I was lucky to spot some active blowholes and the surge pool was starting to get a lot of water coming in too. All very impressive and very touristy at the same time.

Pancake rocks

Pororari River walk
On my second day, I decided to go for a slightly longer walk along the Pororari River. Lots of “caution signs” to start with. Due to heavy storms the trail had suffered at several places. The still chilly morning and the grey cloudy sky turned it all into a mystic scenic river walk. As I felt like it, I passed both swinging bridges and kept heading towards the Pororari Hut. After a while I met a lot of people coming down from the hut. As it would be to far to go there all the way and coming back I turned around after 1,5 hrs.
Getting back to the bridges I continued my walk partly over the Inland Track all the way back to Punakaiki Village. I made a stop on the way “home” at the horse bar for a Cappuccino. Coincidentally, I ran into my two room mates! So lovely to talk about our experiences made throughout the day. I told them about Pete’s little food truck just 5 minutes away. They were both up for some yummy whitebait patties!
The whitebait patties came with a portion of jokes and a great sense of humor. The three of us walked back for some reading and diary writing. In the evening we decided to go for the sunset at the Truman Beach. The clouds were playing games with the sun… so it wasn’t the best of sunsets, but still a great spectacle to witness before calling it a day!



