Rabi Island & Buca Bay
From Qamea we sailed to our next destination Rabi Island, also part of the Northern Division in Fiji, before heading back to Vanua Levu. Lots of rain… and almost getting there we heard a big squeaky sound. The sound and feeling were totally in sync. We both realized, that we had just hit a reef! Captain Craig did some swearing, totally legitime according to situated, stayed calm and made sure we got out of there.
We stayed the night with heavy rain and no internet, which we needed badly as the alternator had given up. Waking up with still rainy weather conditions we decided, that it wasn’t the day for snorkeling and moved on to Buca Bay where we found a spot for Anchorage. The sky was still crying for us. Bad internet made it unreliable to get in touch with the alternator company, so after lunch we moved on to Viani Bay in Vanua Levu.
Viani Bay
This beautiful bay is situated in the Somosomo Strait across Taveuni Island and the perfect spot for diving the famous Rainbow Reef and the White Wall. Captain Craig had been here before. So once we were on Anchorage, he got in contact with Marina from the local Dive school to arrange some dives.
I felt like paddleboarding again, so got myself ready to paddle to the beach. There was a nice little path passing some huge properties. They seemed abandoned, but not neglected. Some Fijians were working on the land around it, while the owners were away. I visited the Diving school and introduced myself to Marina. The school next door was closed as it was Saturday.
Hiking along the bay
Due to high tide I couldn’t go any further, so I turned around to walk to the other end of the bay. Almost instantly I met Dickson an amiable Fijian. We chatted along and when I told him where I was heading he offered to walk with me, as his house was in that direction. I really appreciated it, as the tide was changing. He showed me several pig sheds, and I followed him through mangroves and partly the water. I would have never been able to do this path on my own!
We were greeted by the locals when we passed their houses. Dickson knew just everybody! At one of the bigger villages I met his sister. Families and children were dancing to music under a big tree with hammocks. A perfect weekend it seemed to me! We took a rest next to the “town hall” – a small open-covered spot next to the water. Dickson got me a coconut and his dogs “Bun & Bea” sat with us. He found some leaves for his bark and smoked while we were talking about his family. He is a father to four young kids and a farmer.
Our last stop was his house. Situated at the very end it was a tricky climb uphill. Slippery due to the rain the days before I followed Dickson carefully. He checked his water tanks before we headed back. Unfortunately I had left my phone at SV Russula, so I could not take any pictures at all. I promised myself to come back the next day. Dickson said, we could go for another hike more inland if I wanted.
Farmland
The next morning I went out again, this time bringing my phone while Captain Craig went diving with Dave and his son Will from the States and a sweet girl Laura from Scotland. Once I reached the beach, I saw some kids, one was called Dickson. That rang a bell! And yes, his dad appeared from the mangroves shortly after carrying a sack of cement.
His mum came out of a big property, she was in charge of. Dickson introduced me and we started talking. She wasn’t too fond of her husband and men in general due to unfortune experiences made in the past. “You want to go for a walk?” she asked me. “Look, you take this path. You can do it perfectly on your own. I need Dickson to help me, as I only have three children” she pointed out. I smiled, waved goodbye to Dickson and went on for a walk through farmland as I soon would find out!
Taking the upper path this time, as the lower one was covered with water due to the tide I found my way through. As this trail goes slightly more inland it was kind of confusing sometimes. That’s where I got wrong! The bushes got higher, banana trees and pineapple plants showed me a small, muddy path through farmland. I kept going. Sweating along, the mosquitoes soon found me.
At some point I was so high up and far away from the ocean. The path vanished and not a single house was in sight. Best thing to do was turning around and get back. I loved the exploring, but Oh dear, I missed my guide Dickson! Eventually I found the lower path where I went with him the day before. Several mud crabs “qari” were hiding from me at every footstep I made. Passing some settlements, kids greeted me from their doorsteps with “Bula, bula Melanie!”
Feeling blessed by all the beauty of nature and finally moving myself around land I arrived back to the boat by the end of the day to share my stories with Captain Craig. He was very excited himself about the amazing dives at Rainbows End and the Purple Wall. He had agreed to meet his fellow-divers at Happy Hour at the diving school. It was lovely to meet those wonderful people and learn more about the different fish and coral that evening. Dave, a professionell photographer sure had a lot to share!
