High-speed train to Qufu
After spending many weekends at the Kung Fu Acedemy, I feel like travelling on my own for a change, exploring the nearby region. I choose Qufu, an easy destination to reach by high-speed train. The city is best known as the birthplace of one of China’s greatest philosophers: Confucius.
I also feel like meeting other travellers, so I book a private room in a youth hostel. After boarding the high-speed train at Feixian North, I enjoy the journey as the landscape unfolds outside the window. We pass countless cornfields, where hardworking farmers are tending their plots of land. About three hours later, I arrive in Qufu, where a Didi takes me to my hostel.
Although it’s still early in the morning, my room is already ready for check-in. What a wonderful start to the day!
After dropping off my backpack, I ask the lady at the reception desk for directions. (once again, we rely on Google translator to communicate – what a surprise!) Well informed, I set off towards the famous Confucius Temple.
Qufu feels different from the other places I have visited so far. The streets are filled with large, and heavy traditional horse-drawn carriages, and cycle rickshaws transporting visitors around the city. I can’t help but feel sorry for the horses. It’s only 9.30 a.m., yet the temperature has already reached to 30°C, with the humidity hovering around 85%!
Confucius
Confucius (551 -479 BCE) was a Chinese teacher, philosopher, and political theorist, born in Qufu, then part of the state of Lu, now Shandong Province. He was strove to restore social harmony, moral integrity, and traditional values through his philosophy, which later became known as Confucianism. He pioneered public education by welcoming students from all social classes. Kindness, proper etiquette (rituals) and respect for parents and ancestors formed the core of his teachings – values that deeply resonate with me.
Temple of Confucius (Kong Miao)
Before reaching the impressive Temple of Confucius (Kong Miao), I stop at a tiny restaurant where three women are passionately preparing delicous dumplings. Spring onion or carrots is all I can make out from the menu. I order a portion stuffed with carrots. They are tasty, filling and exactly what I need to keep me going for the day!
Soon I arrive at a side entrance to the Temple. I can purchase a ticket for “The Three Confucian Sites” which are collectively designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Despite this, buying a ticket turns out to be far from straighforward! I can only pay with WeChat, not with Alipay. As a foreigner, I am apparently not allowed to buy my ticket here and am told to go to the main entrance instead!
I’m already CONFUCIUS-ED,…. before even entering!
Going against the flow of the crowd, I finally reach the main entrance. A few English-speaking guides are already waiting to offer their services. Inside, I quickly buy my admission ticket for all three sights, which is valid for two days. I love that many attractions in China allow enough time to explore at your own pace instead of limiting your visit to a single day.
I am deeply impressed by the temple, apparently the oldest and largest temple dedicated to Confucius. The historic buildings, with their beautifully carved wooden roofs, display an astonishing level of craftmanship. I find myself admiring the artisans who created such masterpieces centuries ago.
The ancient trees are just as captivating. A true joy for the eye! I cannot resist touching their weathered trunks, and every now and then I find a quiet spot next to one of these “magnificant giant special one“, just to simply sit, reflect and gaze around me. I feel completely at peace here!
The grand sacrificial hall is magnificent, with its imposing statues. A small performance takes place, with actors dressed in colourful traditional costumes. Once again, however, many of the historic buildings are used as souvenir shops, selling bracelets, calligrafy, snacks and other gifts. Somehow it doesn’t feel quite right to me. I would rather see the room furnished as they once were, offering a glimpse into everyday life centuries ago.
Kong Family Mansion (Kong Fu)
By now I am exhausted, and the heat is relentless. Fortunately, the Kong Family Mansion (Kong Fu), is only a stone’s throw away from the temple. On my way there, I discover a lovely little shop selling postcards. Even better, they conveniently come with stamps attached. I happily use my chance to buy a few and send them to loved ones back home. An old-fashioned English-style letter box makes posting them wonderfully easy!
The Mansion is a vast historic palace complex, where the direct descendants of Confusius lived and managed the estate for centuries. This feels much more like a museum! There’s a shadow puppets show, several rooms have been restored to show how they once looked, and naturally, a few are filled with souvenirs stalls. I also get to sample some traditional tea and thoroughly enjoy wandering through the peacful gardens, with their lotus flowers and ancient trees.
Finally, I have had enough for one day. I leave the mansion and head back to my hostel. It is confronting to see the horses standing in the scorching heat, constantly swishing and twisting their tongues. They must be so thirsty. I feel genuinely sorry for them.
After a refreshing shower – I still seem to be the only guest in the hostel, so much for meeting fellow travellers – I head back into town in search or dinner. I find a nice restaurant, but on the way there I pass several pet shops where puppies, kittens and tiny turtles are being kept in terrible conditions. Instantly, I lose my appetite.
I don’t think I will ever get used to witnessing this kind of cruelty.
Cemetery of Confucius (Kong Lin)
The next day, feeling fit again, I walk all the way to the Cemetery of Confusius, which is also included in my admission ticket. I arrive too early, but that turns out te be a blessing. An elderly Chinese man starts chatting with me and suggests I take a walk around the temple area before the gates open. I follow his advice and enjoy strolling through the nearby vegetable gardens, where I end up having a lovely conversation with a local farmer.
The cemetery itself turns out to be a massive, forested family burial ground, containing the tomb of Confucius (one tomb, but two memorial structures – I am CONFUSIUS-ED again – but a friendly man highlights,that its because of the different dynasties – adding commemorative structures to his grave), and thousands of his descendants.
Beautiful pavilions, elegant stone bridges and winding pathways connect the various sections of the cementery. Smal shuttle busses offer a ride for a fee, but I prefer exploring everything on foot.
After hours of wandering through the peaceful grounds, my feet begin to ache and I am absolutely starving. There is only one small pavilion selling drinks and snacks, but no proper meals. I settle for a tube of Pringles. The first I’ve had in a very a long time. Cucumber flavour – it will do! Once I leave the cemetery, I reward myself with a delicious bowl of vegetable soup at a nearby eatery, before heading back to my hostel.
Sights
On my way back to the hostel, I pass a place with typical opulent Chinese gates. Curious, I enter through the grand, imposing dark painted wooden doors and am immediately welcomed by two friendly guards. They wave me inside, and I am free to wander around.
This place is fascinating! It feels like a combination of an archery training ground and an activity park. Numerous photograpphs of important politicians and leaders adorn the walls. I am impressed, although I am not entirely sure what to make of it.
Back at the hostel, I check out and ask Chat GPT to recommend a nice teahouse somewhere between the hostel and the railway station to pass the time before cathing the high-speed train back to the Academy. It’s my first time using Chat GPT instead of a travel guide or Google.
I am positively surprised when it offers me three nearby options. I decide to walk, but before long a rickshaw slowly pulls up beside me. An elderly man, his deeply wrinkled face resting above a frail body that seems to be little more than skin, muscles and bones, stares at me hopefully while waving me over. It is obvious that he wants to give me a ride.
I have never liked being driven around in a rickshaw. Perhaps it is even a Dutch thing, but I feel very uncomfortable letting someone, especially someone who could be my granddad, pedal me through the streets.
Politely I decline several times, but he keeps insisting. At the same time, I would like him to earn some money, so eventually I give in. He happily pedals me me down the road, saving me some time.
When he drops me off, I realise I am passing the Confucius Mausoleum. Confucius himself is not buried here – I have just visited his grave before in the cemetery – but since I am here anyway, I decide to take a quick look inside this monumental memorial before continuing to the teahouse.
Tea ceremony
Getting tired, I continue walking in search of to the recommended tea house. Finally arriving at the address, the only thing I can find is a bar serving alcoholic drinks. Not exactly my idea of a pleasant place to spend a few hours writing my diary.
Annoyed I walk up and down the street until I finally find some locals to ask for directions. Nobody has ever heard of this place. So frustrating! Back in the days, travelling with my lonely planet guidebook, places sometimes no longer existed. But it has never happened, that nobody had even heard of one. I’m not only getting older – I really am old school!
I keep walking until I eventually come across a tea shop. As I enter, two cheerful young ladies greet me warmly. They are eager to help and patiently answer my questions. They have never heard of this tea house either. Since I am already there, they suggest I try some of their tea instead. It isn’t what I had in mind, but why not?
Sweating all over, due to the heat, the humidity and most likely also my hormones, I happily accept their invitation to sit down in a comfortable chair. They switch on the air conditioning and serve me a cup of tea. Wow,… never have I tasted such a lovely flavour – nutty, slightly sweet, and incredibly smooth. I ask what kind of tea it is, and with help of the translator app, I find out it’s tartary buckwheat tea!
The two of them seem delighted to have me in their tea shop. We chat using the translator app and every now and then they surprise me by spaeking a complete sentence from the heart in English. They even perform a small informal tea ceremony for me and show me the elegant tea rooms upstairs. Their giggles are infectious, and they are so genuinely kind and caring that I end up buying some tea.
By now I am getting hungry so, I ask if they know a good place nearby that serves dumplings. They enthusiastically discuss several options before agreeing on one and showing me the address. I thank them and am about the leave.
“Bù, bù – No, no!” they say.
The younger one, is frantically typing on her phone, before looking up and saying “My colleague,… she bring you!“
Thanks to Chat GPT sending me to a place that apparently doesn’t exist, I suddenly find myself getting a ride on a scooter, being escorted to a lovely dumpling restaurant.
I thank her warmly for the ride, and we say goodbye. After about forty minutes later, to my surprise, she suddenly appears again, holding out her phone. The translation message reads: “Are you taking a didi from here to the train station or from our tea shop?” I am amazed by how considerate these two young women are. “No, no” I tell her “I take a didi from here. But thank you soooo much!”
These two young women remind me that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the younger generation. Even though communication has changed and screeens are used far more than I personally consider “healthy“, the willingness to help one another is still very much alive!
With a warm heart, full of joy, and a big smile on my face, I begin my train journey back.
