Dali (Yunnan)
The city of Dali, in modern-day Yunnan, was once the capital of the Dali Kingdom, also known as the Dali State. It is home to the Bai ethnic group, whose rich culture is still very much alive today. As you wander through the narrow streets of this charming old town, you’ll encounter traditional Bai architecture everywhere.
Dali Old Town
After a scenic train journey, Dave – my Australian friend who has now joined me for a couple of weeks – and I arrive safely at our next destination: Dali.
I have booked a comfortable room in a lovely homestay with a peaceful courtyard, just outside the North Gate. It is the perfect location for exploring Dali Old Town, without having to walk too far. Dave is still an active traveller, but his mobility is different from mine especially after my two months of intsive training at the Kung Fu Academy!
Atom, a fellow student from the Kung Fu Academy and a true “Master of the Staff” happens to be in Dali too, so we agree to meet for dinner. It is so good to see him again and to catch up on everything that had happened since he left. He arrives from Lijiang, where he became friends with a lovely Chinese family. Without hesitation, he gives me, Huqin’s contact details, so we will be able to meet her soon in Chengdu, her hometown.
I love it, when “networking” like this happens. In the end, we are all connected!
Together, we stroll through the picturesque, historic walled Old Town, with its cobblestone streets and traditional stone houses. There are restaurants specialised in mushrooms and souvenir shops everywhere. I quickly become overwhelmed, especially since I am not much of a shopper. After a long, long walk, Dave is reaching to his limit. We finally arrive at a wonderful vegetarian restaurant Atom wants to visit.
Erhai Lake
It’s hard to decide what to visit. The Erhai Lake, is a pristine plateau lake, popular for scenic cycling, boat trips and lakeside villages like Xizhou. Atom tells us how he enjoyed exploring the lake on a scooter. As it rains a lot, I don’t feel like renting a scooter or a bike. The chance of having an accident on the slippery roads, with all the traffic, doesn’t seem worth the risk.
So we end up enjoying the Erhai Lake from a distance while climbing up the North Gate for a great view.
Three Pagodas
The next day, Dave and I decide to visit the Three Pagodas. This iconic ninth-century three-pagoda complex of Chongsheng Monastery stands gracefully against the majestic Cangshan Mountains. After a short 20-minute walk we arrive.
We show are passports. I pay 75 Yuen admisson fee, whereas Dave gets in for free. He is “grey“. Which means so much as a “senior citizen“! Slowly, we explore the main pagoda, called Qianxun Pagoda, which was built between 823 and 840 AD. The two smaller pagodas next to it, form a unique triangular arrangement.
Chongsheng Temple
By following the endless steps, we keep climbing towards the upper terraces. The higher we climb, the more spectacular the panoramic view becomes. While Dave is taking a well-deserved rest I continue all the way to Chongsheng Temple. I am in awe – not only of the large Buddhist statues, but even more of the impressive handcrafted wooden panels in the temple, which explain the history of Buddism in China.
I call Dave and encourage him to continue – he cannot miss this! There are small shuttle buses at the top, so we’ll be able to catch one down. Soon, we explore the temple together. We are both in awe! While walking past the hand-carved wooden panels, I spot two tickets on the floor. Curiously, I pick them up. And guess what….?!
Two tickets for the shuttle bus! The smile on my face couldn’t be bigger. As happy as anyone could be, I proudly show them to Dave. “Look, what I just found!” The universe means is smiling on me today. It’s never about the money, but about the little moments of treasure like this!
Dave lights some insence before we catch the scenic shuttle (free for us) all the way back down to the entrance. What a wonderful day filled with culture, breathtaking views and spirituality!
Bai Torch Festival
In the evening, after enjoying a tasty mushroom hot pot, we see people carrying large burning pine torches. Small bonfires have been lit along the roadside on the way to our homestay. We wonder what it’s all about.
Soon we find out, that its the Bai Torch Festival, one f the biggest annual celebrations in the Dali region. The Torch Festival is celebrated by the Bai and Yi ethnic groups. Fire is believed to drive away bad luck and evil spirits and to bring health, prosperity, and a good harvest. We feel so lucky to be part of it!
