Shaxi (Yunnan)
After busy and noisy Dali, it is time to move on to a quieter and smaller town: Shaxi. We decide to share a taxi with a Chinese woman, Irene, and her daughter, Felicia, who both live in Sydney. It is a pleasant, scenic journey, passing cornfields and tabacco plants all the way.
Our homestay is tucked away in a side alley, with a lovely courtyard. We have a nice twin room, although it is not particularly spacious, and a terrible high-tech bathroom. The toilet seat is heated to 40 degrees, which find pretty discusting – and way too hot!
The shower turns out to be even worse. It starts at 23 degrees, but as soon as you try to regulate the temperature, it quickly shoots up to 47 degrees! It is impossible to stop it at the temperature you actually want! After struggling with it for a while, I ask the receptionist to come and show us how to use it correctly. She tries herself and gets the same results.
Her answer: “It’s a smart shower. It regulates itself.”
Yeah… right I think to myself. To what!?
Old Town
The Ancient Town, or “Old town” of Shaxi, is once again a place filled with tea and souvenir shops. Cute coffee places and little pavilions tucked away from the busy main streets make Shaxi much more “my kind of place“, though. The market square offers a beautiful view of the Kuixing Pavilion, also known as the Ancient Theatre Stage, and there is a lovely nearby temple too.
Dave and I enjoyed a fancy, European-priced Latte and Cappuccino in the early morning at a quaint little coffee shop on Shaxi’s Sideng Square. It is wonderful just to sit and watch the town slowly come to life. Souvenir stalls are bein set up for the crowds, while the first tourists gradually appear, ready to take pictures in front of the famous Ancient Theater Stage.
Tea Ceremony
Another day, while Dave is resting, I set off to explore on my own. Soon I spot an artistic little book shop that also serves tea. That’s me! I enter the tiny shop, which is filled with so much love and so many beautiful little details that I am overwhelmed.
I politely ask the girl if I can go upstairs to have a look. She replies: “No, no… tea now“.
I take this to mean, that there are people having tea upstairs at the moment, so I apoligise and am about to leave.
Then the girl takes out her phone and shows me a message while speaking English to me: “You go up, but then come and have tea with me. So, sorry, my English is so bad!”
I smile and thank her before going upstairs.
What I discover there is too beautiful to put into words! Books stretch from floor to ceiling, arranged in a wonderfully cosy setting. Soft cushions are separeted by a little tea table, creating the perfect place to enjoy a cup of tea while reading Goethe and looking out over the narrow, busy cobblestone street below. There is also a large variety of Chinese books too, I wish I could read them!
When I come back downstairs, I join Keiko for a lovely tea cereomony. How sweet she is, offering me Pu-ehr and white tea. She speaks so respectfully and warmly about her boss, who is a real artist. He designs the wrapping for his teas himself!
Each package, decorated with detailed black-and-white paintings depicting ordinary Chinese life, is a true piece of art. How talented!
After an hour or so, I leave, but not before Keiko gives me two free tea samples to take home.
Yujin Bridge
During the evenings, the atmosphere in Shaxi changes. The lanterns are lit, and especially the area around the Yujin Bridge turns into a magical place to be.
There is live music, with a young Chinese woman singing softly while people sip their fancy fruit drinks, and enjoy the end of the day.
Shizhong Mountains
Irene, the woman from our shared taxi, tells us about the Shizhong Mountains and their amazing temples. So, the next day, I book a Didi to visit them.
The ride itself turns out to be worth the money. Our driver takes us all the way up into the mountain area along winding roads, with impressive views unfolding around every bend.
It’s interesting what mountains do to me – every time. I just seem happier when I have them around me.
We buy our tickets and get on the shuttle bus, while being watched by monkeys. At first, I think, we must have done something wrong, because the shuttle bus takes us quite a way back down again. But everything turns out to be exactly as should be.
Together we explore The Grottoes of Shizhong Temple section. It is a steep climb, but we are rewarded with stunning views. It is hot, and Dave starts to struggle a little.
Baoxing Temple
The shuttle bus takes us, passing Shilong Village, to our next destination: The Baoxiang Temple area.
Dave stays at the bottom of the mountain, enjoying a snack and watching the playful wild monkeys, while I head off for another steep climb towards Baoxiang Temple.
A stony, man-made path leads me upwards. Many of the monkeys have tiny babies, and they don’t seem bothered at all by the visitors passing by. There is something almost mystical about walking through this dense forest.
Soon, I am welcomed by prayer flags. I reach the Antiphonal Stage and buy some insence. Looking up at the huge golden Buddha sitting high above in the mountain, I feel a lump in my throat.
I don’t know why, but I often feel very drawn to Buddhism.
Slowly, I continue my walk, trying to take it all in. From Baoxing Temple, I continue aloong tiny, steep stairways. The views become even more stunning than before! Statues, little shrines and ancient structures appear along the way. It is magical!
A forest path eventually brings me to Tongming Pavillon. Shortly before aching Lingquan Monastery, I decide to turn around and head back, before it gets too late.
Satisfied and happy I return to Dave. It feels wonderful to do a proper physical walk again, and the magical atmosphere around the temples has made my day more than complete.
I am so grateful!
